First Coast Pet

Posts Tagged ‘equine’

Before the ultimate goal of saddle training can begin it is necessary to complete some important groundwork with your horse. You will need to take your horse from trailer or barn to the tack area, tack up, and then you’ll ride. There would be little point in teaching saddle training without first learning how to get to that point. The two of you can only act as a team if your horse cooperates with you. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Only then can you lead your horse using a halter and lead rope.

With the primary objective of safety in mind, your horse needs to learn what is acceptable behaviour. You will need to address behaviours which come naturally to him, such as pulling against the lead rope. It’s important that your horse knows not to invade the personal space of the person holding the lead rope. Many an accident has occurred as a direct result of inattention to the importance of teaching your horse basic safety manners before attempting anything more advanced. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

The three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – come into play when leading your horse. If you have already achieved success at haltering, then you probably know all about the three Ps already.

Ideally you need to begin lead training with your horse when he is still a foal. A very young horse will not need to know just yet about saddles and riding, but basic ground manners training should begin early on. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

Having the dam – the foal’s mother – on site can help dramatically when beginning training as the younger horse will naturally copy her behaviours. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. The young learn naturally from the elder. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They watch the other horses to learn these things. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Your student will be observing this as horses like to know what is going on around them, especially when it involves one of their own herd.

A good place to start is to lead a more experienced horse along with the foal; lead them simultaneously with you in the middle. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

If you have a calm horse which you think the foal will follow you could also use the pony method. This is done by simply towing the student horse behind using a longer lead rope. This is actually a logical method for teaching the lead, as it’s natural for the young to follow the elders behaviour.

If there are no other horses around to help your student out here, you will need to rely only on patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. Don’t be discouraged if it takes longer than you would like for your horse to understand what it is that’s expected of him.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. This lets your horse know that you are happy with his behaviour.

Once he has mastered walking with you in a straight line you can then attempt a small turn to the left while still maintaining the space between you. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. Remember to release pressure on the lead rope and reward him every time he shows a step in the right direction.

Lead training can really try your patience. Stay with it and you will see great improvement. Do a little work every day if you can and this will put you closer to the day you can finally saddle up for a ride.

Confirmation of colic is a situation that strikes fear into any horse lover. So what is equine colic? What indicators should you be aware of?

Colic in horses refers to pain which stems from the abdomen. Generally horses do not hide abdominal pain very well. So if there is any disturbance of gut functioning they will usually display signs of pain.

Signs of mild discomfort could be stretching, a stance as if to urinate, and pawing the floor. If in more pain the horse will stand up and lie down, and roll to try to become more comfortable.

It will likely start to sweat. In more severe cases it will get up and down and continuously roll.

What Should You Do?
Should you believe your horse is suffering from colic, it’s best to call an equine vet straight away. The vet will be able to provide emergency pain relief and decide whether further action is appropriate.

What can you do while you wait for the vet to arrive? Taking your horse for a walk often helps. It may encourage his intestines to work ina normal manner and surpress the pain. It could also prevent him lying down to roll. If however he is lying down peacefully then you should let him stay there.

It used to be thought that horses could cause a twisted gut by rolling around. That has been proven to be probably not true. However it is best to stop him rolling if you can. That way you will prevent him injuring himself by banging himself on nearby walls. But be careful that you don’t hurt yourself. It’s likely horses will forget all their normal manners when in pain.

There are many different reasons as to why horses get colic. Frequently the signs look the same regardless of the cause.

So how will the vet look into the issue? He or she will listen to your horses abdomen with a stethoscope which will show them if there is more or less activity in the intestines than normal.

Monitoring the heart rate gives a good idea of the seriousness of the discomfort and the severity of the issue. A horse with a normal heart beat doen’t have a serious case. Whereas a high heart rate is not such a good sign.

A really helpful part of the examination will be the rectal examination. By physically feeling the intestines, the vet may be able to find the cause of the problem. Without doubt this is a highly skilled procedure, that hasthe potential to be hazardous for both parties. But for an experienced vet the feedback it gives is invaluable in concluding the cause of the problem. Revealing an obstruction, or a swollen loop of intestines as a result of a twist or another problem with the intestines.

In all but the simple cases vets may pass a tube through the horses’ nose into the stomach. It sounds unpleasant but helps make your horse more comfortable by lowering the pressure in the stomach. It can also give the vet detailed information as to whether the stomach is emptying properly.

In some cases the horse might be so much pain that it is impossible for the vet to diagnose properly without first giving a dose of pain killer.

Only by considering all of the information provided by a careful examination is the vet able to make a tentative diagnosis. Even then it might not be possible to tell exactly what the problem is.

It might be the case that, after the first inspection, the horse requires emergency surgery. Though more usually the vet will decide to treat the horse with a fast-acting painkiller and review his condition after a few hours. The majority of examples display a rapid improvement. However some will show no response to the treatment, or they might respond initially, only to start showing signs of discomfort again later on.

Rather than having to bring the vet out multiple times, it is usually preferred to transport these cases to a specialist equine practice where they can be monitored closely and operations can be performed if appropriate.

In Conclusion
Luckily the vast majority of examples respond quickly to medical intervention. Although if surgery is needed – it is important to operate as soon as possible. The chance of a successful outcome is much better if the surgery is performed before too much damage has taken place.

For more information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Most horse illnessesses and injuries (excluding those caused by shorts injuries or mistreatment are caused by a few horse management mistakes. Following are the 10 most important tips for correct horse management and protecting your horse’s health

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

A mineral stone and salt lick should also be provided, to compensate for any deficiencies in the horse’s food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

Colic is the most commonly occuring serious horse illness, affecting at least 1 in 10 horses each year. It is the single biggest cause of premature horse death and also the most frequent source of major veterinary bills. In addition, it can cause other serious illnesses, such as laminitis or founder.

There are douzens of different types of colic and just as many causes. However, the primary causes have been identified by research which has spaned thousands of colic cases. Following is a list of what one should do to avoid these primary causes and thereby minimise the risk of horse colic, as well as being generally good horse health practices.

1) Feed Frequently. Horses have evolved as foragers, eating throughout the day. The more often your horse eats, the healthier its digestive system will be. Try to replace a few large meals by more but smaller meals.

2) Grass before Grain. The equine digestive system is designed for ‘high volume, low calorie’ food such as grass or hay. Energy-dense foods such as grain or musli have insufficient volume and fiber. Consequently, the diet should have as much grass or hay as possible. If one feeds both hay and grain, one should feed the hay followed by the grain rather than the reverse order, as this results in better digestion and less bolting.

3) Soak Food Pellets. Food pellets (such as pelleted hay) should be soaked. Unsoaked pellets can greatly expand upon entering the stomach, resulting in bloating. Also, both choke and bolting are more likely to occur with unsoaked pellets.

4) Secure the Feedroom. The feedroom should be locked or have a horse-proof latch to prevent horses from getting in and gorging themselves. Excessive feeding, especially on grain and similar foods, can result in colic. It can also cause laminitis or founder.

5) Prevent Bolting. A horse may bolt (swallow without chewing) its food, potentially resulting in colic. This may be simply greed or a bad habit, but can also be due to medical issues such as dental problems. If your horse bolts, discuss with your vet how to correct this problem.

6) Dirt and Sand. Horses that ingest large amounts of dirt or sand are likely to develop impaction colic, especially if they have a low-fiber diet. Do not feed your horse on a sandy or dirty surface. Avoid putting them on over-grazed pastures, as they will ingest earth on such pastures.

7) Water. Ensure that the horse has access to water at all times. During winter, horses will often not drink enough if the water is too cold so one may need to warm the water. After exercise, limit the amount of water the horse drinks before it cools down.

Worming. Horses which are wormed regularly (3-4 times/year) are less likely to develop colic. All the horses on a given pasture should be wormed at the same time to prevent cross-reinfection. Horses which have not been wormed for a long time can get colic when wormed due to an excessive worm population, so they should be given a laxative a few days before to first reduce the quantity of worms.

9) Regular Exercise. Horses with insufficient exercise are more prone to colic. When starting an exercise regime, start gradually as rapid changes in the amount of exercise can result in colic.

10) Eating Bedding. Many horses eat bedding, particularly straw bedding. If your horse ingests a large amount of bedding, especially inedible beddings (such as wood shavings), change to a bedding type which they don’t eat.

10) Cold. Although horses can tolerate a fair amount of cold, if they become chilled (drop in body temperature) they are likely to develop colic. This is particularly likely to occur when there is a sudden drop in temperature after a relatively mild period. Avoid these by allowing your horse to develop a winter coat and/or protecting it with a rug. Especially during wet and windy weather, the horse should be protected from excessive cold.

Spending time with your horse not only enables a close bond to develop between you both, but it also enables you to learn how your horse responds to situations and how they are in themselves. Over time you will learn his body language. A happy horse will be responsive to you and have a calm and relaxed manner. He will keep a low head, relaxed jaw and have soft eyes. A horse when happy will not invade your personal space – this is a sign of respect in seeking affection from you. Surprisingly, yawning is a sign not of boredom but of relaxation and calm. Be aware that if your horse holds his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes whilst showing a reluctance to stand still, then this is a sign that he is not comfortable and something is troubling him. Allow the horse time to settle himself slowly in order to avoid the onset of “flight” mode and further stress.

Regular grooming gives you the opportunity not only to spend quality time together, but also for you to check your horse over. It is advisable to check your horse’s teeth, eyes, hooves, shoes and droppings frequently. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. Regular worming treatments and routine vaccinations are important and you should make sure that you book appointments for these with your vet. Medications should be rotated so that parasites do not get the chance to become immune – this also gives a wider circle of protection from worms and parasites. It’s important for the prevention of colic, heart and immune system problems to give correct equine medication. Make sure you have asked your vet to administer influenza, encephalitis and rhinoneumonitis vaccinations. It is also advisable to have vaccinations for tetanus and rabies, though these are not necessarily essential. Regular users of trailers at show and equestrian events may need to show a negative Coggins test for presence of the incurable virus EIA or equine infectious anaemia.

Regular visits from the farrier is an important part of keeping a horse happy and comfortable. It is important for your horse’s comfort, mood and performance that you do not allow his feet to get too long and unbalanced. Your farrier will need to trim your horse’s hooves every six weeks or so.

Your horse will need a blanket or coat during the wet and cold winter months and during the summer, a fly protective horse sheet or mask is advisable. Horses can produce a soapy lather when they sweat, so it can be good to use a horse cooler after exercise. Drinking water directly after exercise could put a horse’s body into shock. When you have been exercising your horse, allow him to cool down sufficiently before a meal. You shouldn’t exercise your horse straight after eating – leave it for at least an hour.

Horses need to have a purpose in life – whether this be for work or pleasure. Horses love to be needed. A horse needs to feel a purpose and that everything is ok – a young horse in particular should be praised often even for simply standing still. Horses by nature are inquisitive and will gain in confidence the more new experiences they are introduced to.

A horse will be at its happiest when given the very best in love and care that it is possible to give. Providing the best type of healthcare possible is a responsibility which you, as the horse’s owner, agree to take on when purchasing a horse. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. A horse will show you vast amounts of love in return for the simple effort of attention and care for his well-being.

If you are looking for a free (or very inexpensive) horse, one of the best places to look is rescue associations, or animal rescue groups which also deal with horses. These associations take on horses but have limited resources to take care of them in terms of space (stalls, pasture), money (food, bedding, etc.) and staff time (mucking out, general care). Consequently, they are normally looking for good homes to pass the horses onto, so that they can free up their scare resources to care for others. Therefore, they will usually pass the horses on for free, or for a nominal amount (to recover some of their direct costs).

Aside from getting a free horse, you are also doing a good deed. In fact two good deeds: giving a horse a good home and making room for another horse to be rescued. Another advantage is that rescue organisations are non-profit and consequently looking at what is best for the horse and new owner, so are more likely to be honest about potential issues and the suitability of the horse to your requirements than businesses offering horses for sale.

Before they give a horse to a new owner, the association will need assurances that the horse will be well taken care of. You will need to show them that you have the facilities (e.g. stall, pasture) to take care of the horse, or that you will be renting adequate facilities (e.g. at a professional horse boarding business). They will also want to be assured that you have the time, money and commitment to take care of the horse long term.

There may be a number of horses available. Before choosing one, it is advisable to learn as much about it and its background as possible. This will help you identify any potential issues such as health problems or behavioral issues. You should ask about the results of their veterinary examinations of the horse and also the opinions of the staff caring for the horse.

In particular, one should ask why the horse has been taken into care. If it was simply because the owner could no longer keep it (e.g. due to financial difficulties) or lost interest in it (a common situation with horses purchased for young children), then the horse is probably sound. However, if the horse was rescued because it was neglected or abused, then it may have longer term physical or behavioral issues that you need to be aware of. Likewise, if the owner gave up the horse because it was sick or no longer suitable for riding.

One also needs to think carefully about the horse’s current capabilities in terms of what you will use it for. Many rescue horses are old; if you only want the horse as a companion horse then this is not a problem but if you want to ride it regularly then an elderly horse is likely unsuitable. If the local rescue organizations don’t have a horse that meets your requirements, the best solution is to wait. Leave them your contact details and your requirements, after assuring them that you will provide a good home for the right horse. You may need to wait a few months, but with so many horses being rescued for a variety of reasons, there is a very good chance that one which meets your requirements will become available.

When looking to buy a horse, one of the first decisions is whether to get one which is untrained, partly trained, or fully trained. Most people, especially if it is there first horse, will be better off getting a horse which is already trained for whatever they intend to use if for. For example, if one intends to use the horse for basic riding it should already be trained for riding, whereas if you are using it for show jumping, it should already be trained in show jumping.

Of course, after looking at horses for sale, one can purchase an untrained horse or a partly trained horse. Such a horse will be less expensive to buy. Also, you can instruct a trainer on exactly how you want the horse trained, and you can have the experience and pleasure of participating in this. However, against these advantages, there are a number of disadvantages:

• Cost of Training. The cost of training depends on individual circumstances and is hard to estimate, but it is under-estimated far more often than over-estimated. Aside from the direct trainer costs, unless the trainer comes to you, there are the additional costs of either stabling the horse with the trainer, or transporting the horse to the trainer for each lesson. Many people find that by the time the horse is fully trained to the level they require, it would have been cheaper to have bought an already trained horse.
• Accidents. Occasionally there are accidents during training, even with good trainers, especially during early training when the horse is less predictable. Even in the case of minor accidents, there may be vet costs.
• Mis-Training. Trainers vary both in terms of approach and in quality. Furthermore, in order to secure the training contract at an economical level, trainers may rush the training or under-estimate the amount required. If this occurs, at best you end up with an incompletely trained horse and at worse a horse which has been mis-trained, resulting in undesirable behaviors.
• Feel. Two horses, trained in exactly the same way, will provide a different riding experience due to individual differences. Horses differ due to breed, build, training and individual genetics. Consequently, how comfortable you will be riding a horse is more predictable with an already trained horse than with an untrained one.
• Health Examination. A trained horse is easier to evaluate for injuries or other defects as one can ride it and one can watch it carefully while being ridden in each gait. Although one can examine an untrained horse, the examination by necessity is less complete.

Due to these considerations, buying untrained (or partly trained) horse can be both more expensive and more risky than buying a fully trained horse.

Although some people purchase a horse with the idea of training it themselves, this is inadvisable unless one is an experienced trainer (or working closely with one). Novice trainers can easily give the horse bad behaviors or habits, which are expensive and difficult to correct.

Also be careful of buying a partly trained horse based on the seller’s promise to complete the training. After the sale is made, it is too tempting for the seller to rush the training, in order to reduce costs and get payments as quickly as possible. Make the final commitment to buy only after the horse competes its training and you have ridden it to confirm that you are completely happy.

Horses are deeply sensitive animals, therefore it is imperative that they have undivided care and attention. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like us, they also need to feel a bit special, and the little extra love will go a long way.

Horses are herd animals and will enjoy the company of other equines. As horse owner, you should be aiming for your horse to see you as part of the herd, preferably as herd leader. By chewing or licking the horse will show his affection as well as his submission to your leadership. Spending time with your horse will cement the bond of mutual trust. When you have created this important bond it will have an overall positive effect on the horse.

A horse is a naturally clean animal, who needs a clean, warm stall/stable and deep bedding for comfort. A deep bed will ease the strain on their legs and joints, and of course, if they wish to lie down, they can in comfort, ensuring that they feel safe and secure.

It’s important to get the feeding right with horses. Make feeds small but frequent as they will also be grazing during the day. Incorporate a variety of appropriate foods into your horse’s diet in order to provide a balance. Horses need lots of fibre, so make sure that there is fresh hay or grass. While grain is also a fantastic source of fibre, be careful as too much can cause upset stomachs. Water should be available at all times. Water allows the food to ferment so it doesn’t become solid and hard in the horse’s rear gut. Routine is something a horse responds well to, so time your feeding regularity accordingly. Your horse should be fed at the same time each day.

Horses enjoy the attention they get whilst being groomed – it makes them feel secure and loved. They will enjoy a good rub, proper brushing and a nice scratch. This is a quality part of the day which you should both enjoy. It will also maintain their essential coat, keeping it free from any pests and making it glossy and smooth. Also on a daily basis you need to pick your horse’s hooves. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

The happiness of any equine relies largely on exercise. It is important for horses to have daily exercise. You should vary standard exercise routines with perhaps cross-country and jumping. Don’t forget to also give your horse some time to play. Turn him out into the paddock so he can be free. Your horse may want to play with the other horses, or simply hang out with them and relax. It is essential that horses are allowed to relax as well as perform training tasks, otherwise their behaviour can become erratic.

There are many more tips and advice which can be imparted to ensure the physical and psychological well-being of your horse; here we have covered just five of the most important. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

Training cannot begin if you have not first tried to catch the horse. Although this may sound simple, it can be surprisingly frustrating when you attempt this for the first time. This is the most important step in horse training. The foundations of trust are laid in this step. No matter what you do with any horse at any stage of training, remember the basic 3 p's- patience, persistence, and positive reinforcement. Each step of horse training will involve the use of these three elements.

The best way to start with approaching your horse is to have the horse in an enclosure of an easily manageable size. If you don't have a round pen - which is ideal for this - any large fenced area or paddock can be used.

You should start by casually approaching the enclosure. You should try hard to relax and remain calm. Don't allow your stress to enter the pen with you. Since horses are prey animals, they are easily intimidated by anyone or anything that emits stress or aggression of any kind. You wouldn't want your horse to see you as a possible threat, which is how he will interpret those emotions. A bond of trust needs to be made between you and your horse.

Go inside the enclosure but not to catch the horse yet. That will come in good time. Your aim for now is to familiarize yourself with the horse and more importantly, for the horse to become familiar with you. Just walk into the enclosure and stand around for a bit. Don't look at the horse directly. A predator will eyeball and stare at it's prey until it is intimidated. You are not a predator and your horse should not see you as such. You need to be seen as part of the herd.

The next time you go in, take a rake with you and do some tidying up. Inspect the fence to see if there are places it needs mending. The horse should not be approched yet. The horse will approach you eventually and will want to see what you are doing. Horses are naturally curious. The horse will come to have a sniff and check you out once you are a regular visitor.

This first step can take a long time if the horse is unfamiliar with human contact. There are some horses who will not feel too shy and approach immediately. Either way is acceptable. Allow your horse to take his time when getting acquainted - this is how the all-important trust will be built. Patience!

Do not be tempted to reach for your horse just yet, even though it might seem like a good opportunity to do so. The key here is patience. This takes time and you are building a foundation that will last throughout training and well beyond. Do not rush this step.

As the horse approaches, you should then turn and walk away. Make sure that you walk away before your horse does. By doing this you will show him that he is not in charge of you.

Begin to approach your horse, sideways on, only when you feel that you are familiar and comfortable in each other's presence. Walking slowly, remember to also have a loose and relaxed posture. Step sideways to alleviate the nerves of a skittish equine. Move to the side without staring. Glance sideways and move toward your new friend. Don't think to surprise your horse with the halter, or sneak up on him with it. If you even can "catch" the horse like this, how do you then hang onto him if he is scared? This will break the initial bond of trust forcing you to start again. A serious injury could easily be inflicted. Patience and persistence both come into play.

When the horse allows you to come close, it's time for positive reinforcement. Work or training should be far from your mind whist making this initial contact with your horse. This bit is just about the bonding. You can employ positive reinforcement tools by simply stroking, brushing, scratching and talking to your horse. Your horse should be able to enjoy these first moments as much as you. You are both now ready for training.

A note about safety:
A horse should not be approached from behind unless you are very familiar with each other. A horse can register a swift kick before you can even think about getting out of the way. Horses are much faster than humans, particularly if they feel threatened or surprised. Do not approach where you can't be seen.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurance in place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. A single kick from one of these beautiful yet immensly powerful creatures can potentially put a horse rider out of action for a long time. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.

Before buying or choosing a new horse, it is important to check its health. Although it is impossible to be 100% certain that a horse is completely healthy, there are a number of tests which can identify most potential health risks. Following is a checklist.

The first indication is the overall appearance. The coat should be shinny and even. The body should be well proportioned with well toned muscle, neither over weight or under weight. It should stand evenly an all four feet, with the weight evenly distributed and the hooves pointing straight forward. Although it may rest a hind leg (but not a front one), it should not do so for long periods or always the same leg.

Run your hands slowly down each leg, feeling for any swellings, bumps or hot spots. Give special attention to joints and the bottom of the leg. Check that each hoof is smooth, even and crack free.

Lift a hoof and examine the sole to ensure that there are no marks or indications of previous injury and that it is correctly shaped. Repeat with the other hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift one of its feet, this may be because it does not want to lift a good leg and put more weight on a bad one. The hooves are perhaps the most important area to examine in terms of horse health, as so many otherwise good horses have problems here.

Check that the gums are shinny, moist and pink. If you press gently on the gums they will turn white, but should return to the normal pink color within two seconds of you removing your finger.

Examine the teeth for wear, unevenness or spurs. Give the horse about 5kg (10 pounds) of hay and watch it eat. It should use both sides of its jaw equally, not drop any food or leave any pay partly chewed. In the event of doubt, or for older horses, you may wish to get the advice of a horse dentist.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should be firm, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should appear alert, interested in its surroundings and happy. The ears should be perked up and should move in response to sounds. It should appear relaxed rather than nervous.

Have the horse taken to an exercise ring and exercised at all gaits (e.g. walk, trot, and gallop). It should take easy, smooth strides of equal length and with the weight evenly spread on all four legs. It should not favor any leg. Circle the horse in both directions (left inside and right inside) to make sure that it performs equally well in both directions.

The horse should not sweat (except during hot weather) or breathe hard until it has been worked at a fast gait. As it speeds up, there should be a gradual but moderate increase in respiration. As it slows down, the respiration should quickly follow. Once its stops, it should quickly return to its resting heart and respiration rate. It should not show any sign of discomfort or limping either before or after vigorous exercise.

Discuss the horse’s medical history with the owner and seller. Ask to see its inoculation book and medical records. Check if you can discuss these with the horse’s regular veterinarian. In particular, check if the horse has ever had any illness, especially colic or laminitis. Any incomplete or evasive answers should be a concern. Ask what the horse’s diet is, since horses fed a natural diet (grass, supplemented by hay) are less likely to develop digestive problems than horses fed mainly on grains or feeds. Finally, check if the seller will provide a written guarantee for any existing health issues which you discover following the purchase.