While housetraining sounds manageable from the point of view of Havanese training how-to articles, things seem to take on a anxious realism when families themselves have to deal with all that mess and schedule setting.

At the root of all housetraining concerns every owner has to deal with is the lack of set, automatic rules to set straight even two dogs of the same dog breed, try as we all might. All right, so in fact, things are not as worse as the above paragraph intended. While there are a million ways to help out a particular case, certain things fortunately remain changeless: pinning down the problem, and checking out any of the options within the owner’s control.

So what’s to be done about the almost universal story of the Hav that avoids making use of the dog door at night, and even balks at going under a little rain or snow, and in cases of these, prefers pooing inside the house?

Really, the problem above could still thankfully be worse! If there is a way that it could spill into “the perfect crisis,” it would be for the owner not to lift a finger and put into action some consistent and firm havanese training.

In the case of the above dog, looking for extra clues certainly help. For example, let’s say that the above dog is capable of staying inside the family car without complaining that it wants to be let out. This may hint that the dog will do all right if crate-trained. The current owners will also need to be more assertive, putting in place a daily routine that helps the dog know what is expected of it. If the dog has a history of being re-homed, then the dog may have picked up from its previous owners the bad habit of skipping bad weather.

Lastly, a few Havanese training tips. The dog must never be allowed to do exactly what it wants, like refusing crate training, refusing to go outside, etc. The trick is really to start being assertive and in control. Obviously, the dog needs to be appealed to through its favorite treats, in order to finally get it to stay in the crate. Dogs, after all, are driven by smell above all, and sight and sound are only secondary. Getting the dog used to the crate is basically a matter of placing treats bit by bit close to the door of the crate, then eventually within the crate, until such time that the dog will feel used and accustomed to staying within.

Twelve weeks of age are the times of a Havanese puppy becoming more aware of its powerful senses. Its enthusiasm to check out its world is so overcoming, everything simply has to get inspected by the dog’s mouth and-or nose! Thus there is no need for great alarm at a puppy that seem to devote its walks more on chewing the leash, rather than concentrating on the walk.

But if you think you need to take serious Havanese training action about your Hav chomping through the strap and the buckle (short of sawing through the metal part!), then here are some alternatives that can compose your game plan.

Instead of the bite-prone collar and leash, check out using a harness. In this alternative, the leash is attached on the back, making it harder to reach. Put it on the dog eight before leaving, so the dog can’t go for it.

Indeed, doing something about the leash is the starting point of the solution. The following steps illustrate another way of using the leash in order to discourage chewing on the leash.

Hook first the leash to the collar. Then take the leash and wound it around the dog’s neck to make a circle. Take the slack part of the leash, insert and pull through the leash handle. You now have what looks like horse’s reins, consisting of two shorter leads instead of one long one. In effect, the leash rides higher than the collar on the neck.

Lastly, here is a curious Havanese training way to train a dog to lay off the leash. The owner will walk backwards in this procedure, holding the leash of the dog. He or she will hold a long wooden spoon with a few smears of peanut butter, and entice the dog to follow. When there is some slack on the leash, the dog gets praise (plus licks on the spoon of course).

For Havanese dog owners that are constantly on the move, an easily car sick dog is one more pressing issue that demands time and effort. It gets even more frustrating knowing that it is a condition that is not so prevalent anyway. Wouldn’t it be great to have a Havanese training dog that, upon hearing the jangle of car keys, is rough and ready, waiting by the front door, for a car ride?

Unfortunately, most dog owners are far from living this rosy picture. Most of the time, a car ride with the dog prone to feeling ill means stopping a few times to clean up poo in the crate (if nothing worse happens), or to open up windows, or avoid certain types of roads to avoid stressing the dog.

But if there is a will, there is a way of course! Any of the following are bound to keep coming up in any discussions of how to resolve canine car sickness:

1. Some owners make sure about exercising their dogs before the car ride starting from the puppyhood of the dogs. Another common alternative is to give the dog a good walk. The effect of this is that the dog goes to sleep in the crate. Overtime, a dog accustomed to this routine will simply go to sleep during the trip, with or without the walk or romp.

2. If veterinarians are asked, the likely response will most likely be (although a consultation is still the safest and error-free) about meclazine or Bonine. In the case of the latter, the recommended dosage is half of a 25 mg tablet before travel in the case of a dog weighing 9.5 pounds.

3. Another possible recommendation would be half of a Dramamine pill in the case of a ten-pound dog for motion sickness. The pill needs to be given 30 to 40 minutes prior to the trip.

When all anti-car sickness tips and Havanese training tips are tried and judged, perhaps the best things to do are still to keep the dog well-exercised before the trip. An extra rare treat given to the dog before revving the engine will also associate the car ride with good stuff and rewards. But opening that car window may also be the straw to break the camel’s back.

For dog care they are straightforward. One advantage of the Havanese is that they do not shed much. You may see on lists that they do not shed, this misleading as all hair follicles will have a cycle of growing and dying, shedding it hair, but this is variable and not often, so there is no strong cycle of hair shedding. The coat catches the hair and dander internally, so many people think it is non-allergenic, but they all release dander that can aggravate allergies. If you have an allergy sufferer in the house, have one to stay for a few days to check.

The Havanese has a slight wavy double coat, which is soft and light, with a heavier undercoat.

The Havanese should be groomed daily, as they have the tendency for their fur to mat. If you are not showing the dog, you can have the coat trimmed. Whilst they have fur, it is a coat to keep the hot sun off the body, not warmth inside, so in some areas you may need to buy sweaters for them.

It is advisable to dry them after a bath with towels, rather than a hair drier, which can make their skin too dry and prone to infections. It is a breed that for showing needs to keep a natural look, but for everyday looks and practicality may benefit from bows etc..

The original Harvanese were white, but now they occur in all types of coat colours and patterns.
Whilst the Havanese is a toy dog, it is solid and sturdy. They have a weight range of four to six Kgs ( normally 12 lbs). Its height measured at the withers is roughly two hundred and fifty mm( 9-11 inches). The back raises from the withers to the rump which is unusual in dogs.

The Havanese move with an agile springy gait. Whilst they are relatively good swimmers, they generally shire away from water, but careful when near waterparticularly if there are birds for them to run after.

They have almond eyes, with average sized ears that are well covered and hang down. The Havanese are disposed to ear infections, so regularly inspect their ears and clean them. From time to time they may require their inner hairs to be pulled by hand or tweezers. The tail arches over the back and is also well covered. The Havanese have a great sense of smell and are trained in some countries for search. They are easily trainable so are often used in circus shows, tracking, hearing assistance dogs, mould, termite and drug search.

The Havanese routinely live fourteen to sixteen years. Like many other pure breeds they suffer from a few genetically-linked disorders. The most common being liver disease, heart disease, cataracts and retinal dysplasia (dots and streak on the retina). It is advisable only to buy Havanese from parent dogs who have clear eye certificates. Havanese may develop brown tear stains, this is more obvious on the lighter coloured dogs.

The dog originated from the now extent Bichon Tenerife and was taken to Cuba by original settlers and traders. Being popular in Havana in Cuba. Globally the Havanese is a new breed, rapidly growing in the 1970s from only 10 dogs in the United States. Though they were common prior to the Cuban Revolution, they, like many trappings of aristocracy were culled. Rapid growth in popularity now makes it difficult to find a puppy.

A great family dog that is well worth considering.

When you are leaving for work and you see your havanese puppy protesting at the top of its lungs why on earth you are leaving it, you know that it is time to seek answers to one of the most highly anticipated havanese training issues: separation anxiety.

Veteran dog owners immediately recommend crate training as a sure way to start working on the dog’s losing its head every time people leave. The routine will look something like the following (although these definitely can be improved some more): put dog in crate for a set number of minutes, then leave room; open crate door and ignore dog for set number of seconds; greet puppy and play with it; repeat and add more minutes.

Some owners apply a simple, related strategy such as this other one. The dog is left alone in the crate for short periods of time a few weeks a day so that it gets used to the idea of people leaving. The dog is sure to cry for a week or two, but then it is sure to get used to the scheme (which is like a drill of what’s going to happen sooner or later anyway). Before anybody leaves, the TV or radio is turned on, is told “Good boy”, and given a treat. Then the discreet exit is made by everyone.

But if anybody wants to implement something that seeks to “attack” the problem from several angles, perhaps the following steps are needed.

1. Before leaving, the puppy must be ignored for 20 minutes. The goal is to get the dog adjusted to still being happy even if the owner is home yet not interacting with it.

2. It’s actually possible to get the dog to feel positive about someone’s leaving. The owner needs to give it a very prized treat that it will only get when the person leaves home.

3. A shirt or pillowcase full of the owner’s scent needs to be left inside the crate. The dog can get soothe by this if everybody leaves.

4. Before leaving, the owner has to give the dog the keyword that signals the owner will be back. It could be “Be good.”

5. Upon coming back, the dog needs to be ignored until it is calm. This further tells the dog that it will do fine without its person in the house.

When everything is implemented and-or going steady, dog owners need to keep in mind that in havanese training, the crate is not applicable as a solution for stretches of time. The dog’s door can be left open as a form of transition, but in a few months’ time the dog will need to have a run of the house. But even then no chances must be taken. All rugs need to be put away when people leave, trash containers need to be hidden/ covered, table decors secured, etc.

One issue that may disrupt what could otherwise be a happy and fully-adjusted dog is a too-shy or too-submissive Havanese. For example, the dog acts frightened and actually cower when its owner tries to put on its leash, even though the owner can recall absolutely no incident of hitting. Then the dog may refuse to sit when asked to do so during grooming, but instead will curl up despite repeated commands. And when it comes to house training, the dog will refuse to pee or poo when told do so, and instead will just sit and look at the owner sideways, licking its lips, which signals submission. So how is havanese training to fit or to help in all this?

Training definitely can help improve the dog’s situation, first by helping pin down and identifying what exactly is the matter with the dog; shyness and submission are two behaviors that have different triggers, effects and of course solutions. In case of shyness, one solution is to bring the dog to at least 5 new places a week and staying for some ten to fifteen minutes. In a few weeks of hard work, it is actually possible to have a dog that is greatly improved.

How about responding to a submissive dog? For starters, there is so much meaning in human body language and postures that humans take for granted, but which mean so much from a canine point-of-view. A consequence of this is that anybody who wishes to put the dog at ease need to avoid standing and leading over it. Instead, all humans need to try squatting at the dog’s level, allowing the dog to approach if it wants to. A good way to stand near the dog is to do it facing sideways. With these steps and many more, a person is thus capable of appearing more friendly and approachable.

An even more vast source of confidence builders and self esteem boosters are havanese training for puppies, agility classes, obedience, and therapy dog titles; its a great plus point that havanese dogs usually do not think twice demonstrating before people how much they learned. Lots of patience will be needed to help a shy or submissive dog overcome itself, but results are possible if the owner takes the first step!

Many Havanese owners are aware that their dog outshines other dog breeds for being among the smartest, and for not thinking twice about showing before the family and friends just how talented they are! Indeed, Hav dog owners the world over have come to see that teaching the dog some commands is as simple as getting them to follow a simple action or routine.

Let’s take “shake hands” for example. Most people actually only hold the dog’s paw, and say to it “shake” over and over again. Then the day comes when the dog is asked to shake hands, and it actually does! So all this shows that the dog also needs time, sometimes several weeks worth, in order to allow the dog to gradually absorb training information.

Another havanese training technique that appears more methodical is to hold a treat in the fist in front of the dog. Then the dog will try to check out your hand using their nose and mouth, but wait for the dog to eventually start pawing at your hand. Praise the dog effusively if they paw. Some re-training, on the other hand, may be needed in case some dogs are not used to using their paws when sitting.

At least one has claimed that the trick can be taught by putting one’s hand down, palm up on the ground, then with the same hand nudge the knee of the dog to make it lift its paw. When it does so, the owner needs to slide his or her hand under the paw and lavish praise on the dog.

If you want to try out a clicker training method, you will also need to get a tupperware cover. Place the treat on the floor and let the dog see you cover it with the cover. Now, the dog is expected to paw at the cover so it could see the treat. Click, and give the treat when they touch the tupperware. Repeat from the start up to covering the treat with the tupperware, but this time place your hand on the cover. When the dog’s paw touches your hand, click and give treat. Last of all, your hand becomes the cue, and this time there is no treat or tupperware. Then insert the word “Paw” (or “shake hands”) when the dog touches your hand. Click and treat to punctuate this havanese training.

For dog care they are straightforward. One advantage of the Havanese is that they do not shed much. You may see on lists that they do not shed, this misleading as all hair follicles will have a cycle of growing and dying, shedding it hair, but this is variable and not often, so there is no strong cycle of hair shedding. The coat catches the hair and dander internally, so many people think it is non-allergenic, but they all release dander that can aggravate allergies. If you have an allergy sufferer in the house, have one to stay for a few days to check.

The Havanese have a slight wavy double coat, which is light and soft, with a heavier undercoat.

The Havanese must be groomed daily, as they have the tendency for their fur to mat. If you are not showing the dog, you can have the fur trimmed. Whilst they have a good coat, they do suffer in extreme cold, so in some areas you may need to buy sweaters for them.

When you bath them, dry with a towel and allow them to dry off naturally inside, as they are susceptible to skin problems if dried with a hair drier. It is a breed that the kennel clubs, prefer and dictate a natural look, avoiding the bows and preferring the hair over the eyes, that protected their eyes from the Cuban sun.

The original Harvanese were white, but now they occur in all types of coat colours and patterns.
The Havanese has  a stocky build compared to most toy dog breeds. The Havanese weight ranges from four to six Kgs (ten to fifteen lbs). Its height measured at the withers is 220-290mm(around ten). It is an unusual dog in that the rump is higher than the shoulders.

They move with an agile springy gait. Whilst they are relatively good swimmers, they generally shire away from water, but be prudent close to water  if there is something for them to chase.

The Havanese have almond eyes, with average sized ears that are well covered and hang down. They are inclined to ear infections, so routinely inspect their ears and clean them. From time to time they may require their inner hairs to be pulled by hand or tweezers. The tail sweeps over the back and is also well covered. The Havanese have very sensitive noses and are trained often for search. The Havanese are easily trainable so are often used in circus shows, tracking, hearing assistance dogs, mould, termite and drug search.

The Havanese normally live fourteen to sixteen years. The Havanese being breed from a limited gene pool suffer from some genetic diseases. These include liver disease, heart disease, cataracts and retinal dysplasia ( blots on the retina). It is recommended only to acquire Havanese from parent dogs who have clear eye certificates. Havanese may develop brown tear stains, which is especially noticeable on those with white or light coats.

The dog was bred from the now extent Bichon Tenerife and was taken to Cuba by original settlers and traders. Being popular in Havana in Cuba. Globally the Havanese is a new breed, taking off in the seventies from only ten animals in the US. They were common in Cuba, prior to the revolution, but suffered afterwards. Rapid growth in popularity now makes it difficult to find a puppy.

A wonderful family dog that is well worth considering.