First Coast Pet

Posts Tagged ‘horse’

Horses are deeply sensitive animals, therefore it is imperative that they have undivided care and attention. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like us, they also need to feel a bit special, and the little extra love will go a long way.

Horses are herd animals and will enjoy the company of other equines. As horse owner, you should be aiming for your horse to see you as part of the herd, preferably as herd leader. By chewing or licking the horse will show his affection as well as his submission to your leadership. Spending time with your horse will cement the bond of mutual trust. When you have created this important bond it will have an overall positive effect on the horse.

A horse is a naturally clean animal, who needs a clean, warm stall/stable and deep bedding for comfort. A deep bed will ease the strain on their legs and joints, and of course, if they wish to lie down, they can in comfort, ensuring that they feel safe and secure.

It’s important to get the feeding right with horses. Make feeds small but frequent as they will also be grazing during the day. Incorporate a variety of appropriate foods into your horse’s diet in order to provide a balance. Horses need lots of fibre, so make sure that there is fresh hay or grass. While grain is also a fantastic source of fibre, be careful as too much can cause upset stomachs. Water should be available at all times. Water allows the food to ferment so it doesn’t become solid and hard in the horse’s rear gut. Routine is something a horse responds well to, so time your feeding regularity accordingly. Your horse should be fed at the same time each day.

Horses enjoy the attention they get whilst being groomed – it makes them feel secure and loved. They will enjoy a good rub, proper brushing and a nice scratch. This is a quality part of the day which you should both enjoy. It will also maintain their essential coat, keeping it free from any pests and making it glossy and smooth. Also on a daily basis you need to pick your horse’s hooves. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

The happiness of any equine relies largely on exercise. It is important for horses to have daily exercise. You should vary standard exercise routines with perhaps cross-country and jumping. Don’t forget to also give your horse some time to play. Turn him out into the paddock so he can be free. Your horse may want to play with the other horses, or simply hang out with them and relax. It is essential that horses are allowed to relax as well as perform training tasks, otherwise their behaviour can become erratic.

There are many more tips and advice which can be imparted to ensure the physical and psychological well-being of your horse; here we have covered just five of the most important. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

Wood chewing not only damages stables and fencing, it can also be bad for the horse’s health. Wood splinters can get stuck in the gums or teeth. If swallowed, the splinters can damage the stomach or intestines, or cause impaction colic. Fortunately, the habit of wood chewing is usually not difficult to correct and the short-term health risks are low in most cases.

The first step is to confirm that the problem is really wood chewing and not the more serious issue of horse cribbing. In wood chewing, the horse is nibbling on the wood. Cribbing is completely different; the horse does not eat the wood but instead grabs the wood with its front teeth, arches its neck and then sucks in air. As the two activities are very different, observation can confirm which problem your horse has. Alternatively, examination of the wood should show if it has been damaged by nibbling or damaged simply by a firm bite.

Wood chewing is a habit which usually results from boredom. One finds it most often with horses which are confined to their stalls much of the day, who start chewing wood as there is nothing else to do. A less common cause is stress or nervousness, again most common with boxed horses which do not have sufficient exercise or space to work out nervous energy and consequently start chewing wood to distract themselves. A third cause is nutritional deficiencies; if a horse is not getting all the minerals they need.

The first step in fixing the problem is to address the underlying cause. Since it is not always possible to know which of the three possible causes is the problem, the easiest solution is to address all three. Provide the horse with as much pasture time as possible, as this provides mental stimulation and also an outlet for nervous energy. Give it chewy food such as grass and hay, which will occupy it and meet its natural desire to chew better than fast foods such as grain or muesli. Companion horses, exercise and an interesting environment all help. In case the problem is nutritional, ensure that it has good access to a salt lick and a mineral stone. Try to identify anything which may be causing the horse stress (e.g. bullying by another horse) and address the issue.

These steps should result in a reduction in wood chewing. However, once the horse has the habit of chewing on wood, the habit will continue even after the reason for it is fixed. Consequently, one also needs to take steps to address the behavioral aspect in addition to the causes.

One stops the habit by making it unpleasant or impossible for the horse to chew wood. There are a number of products which are designed to taste terrible which one can paint onto wood surfaces, so the horse does not want to chew on them. For fencing, adding an electric fence wire (under current) to the top of the rails will keep the horse from chewing them. Within the stall, one can place metal strips onto the top of wood (e.g. on top of wooden stall doors).

One should make sure to address both the cause (e.g. boredom) and the behavior (e.g. with paint). Doing just one or the other is insufficient. If one fixes the cause but not the behavior, the habit is likely to continue, although to a lesser amount. If one prevents the behaviour (e.g. with paint) but does not address the underlying cause, the horse still has a problem and this may well lead to the development of a different behavioral problem.

Training cannot begin if you have not first tried to catch the horse. Although this may sound simple, it can be surprisingly frustrating when you attempt this for the first time. This is the most important step in horse training. The foundations of trust are laid in this step. No matter what you do with any horse at any stage of training, remember the basic 3 p's- patience, persistence, and positive reinforcement. Each step of horse training will involve the use of these three elements.

The best way to start with approaching your horse is to have the horse in an enclosure of an easily manageable size. If you don't have a round pen - which is ideal for this - any large fenced area or paddock can be used.

You should start by casually approaching the enclosure. You should try hard to relax and remain calm. Don't allow your stress to enter the pen with you. Since horses are prey animals, they are easily intimidated by anyone or anything that emits stress or aggression of any kind. You wouldn't want your horse to see you as a possible threat, which is how he will interpret those emotions. A bond of trust needs to be made between you and your horse.

Go inside the enclosure but not to catch the horse yet. That will come in good time. Your aim for now is to familiarize yourself with the horse and more importantly, for the horse to become familiar with you. Just walk into the enclosure and stand around for a bit. Don't look at the horse directly. A predator will eyeball and stare at it's prey until it is intimidated. You are not a predator and your horse should not see you as such. You need to be seen as part of the herd.

The next time you go in, take a rake with you and do some tidying up. Inspect the fence to see if there are places it needs mending. The horse should not be approched yet. The horse will approach you eventually and will want to see what you are doing. Horses are naturally curious. The horse will come to have a sniff and check you out once you are a regular visitor.

This first step can take a long time if the horse is unfamiliar with human contact. There are some horses who will not feel too shy and approach immediately. Either way is acceptable. Allow your horse to take his time when getting acquainted - this is how the all-important trust will be built. Patience!

Do not be tempted to reach for your horse just yet, even though it might seem like a good opportunity to do so. The key here is patience. This takes time and you are building a foundation that will last throughout training and well beyond. Do not rush this step.

As the horse approaches, you should then turn and walk away. Make sure that you walk away before your horse does. By doing this you will show him that he is not in charge of you.

Begin to approach your horse, sideways on, only when you feel that you are familiar and comfortable in each other's presence. Walking slowly, remember to also have a loose and relaxed posture. Step sideways to alleviate the nerves of a skittish equine. Move to the side without staring. Glance sideways and move toward your new friend. Don't think to surprise your horse with the halter, or sneak up on him with it. If you even can "catch" the horse like this, how do you then hang onto him if he is scared? This will break the initial bond of trust forcing you to start again. A serious injury could easily be inflicted. Patience and persistence both come into play.

When the horse allows you to come close, it's time for positive reinforcement. Work or training should be far from your mind whist making this initial contact with your horse. This bit is just about the bonding. You can employ positive reinforcement tools by simply stroking, brushing, scratching and talking to your horse. Your horse should be able to enjoy these first moments as much as you. You are both now ready for training.

A note about safety:
A horse should not be approached from behind unless you are very familiar with each other. A horse can register a swift kick before you can even think about getting out of the way. Horses are much faster than humans, particularly if they feel threatened or surprised. Do not approach where you can't be seen.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurance in place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. A single kick from one of these beautiful yet immensly powerful creatures can potentially put a horse rider out of action for a long time. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.

Working in the horse business, I often get asked how much a good horse costs. Unfortunately, the question is almost always in terms of ‘how much to buy’ rather than ‘how much to keep’. The sad truth is that far too many people are buying horses and then finding that they cannot afford to keep them.

People working with horses (breeding, training or sales) are understandably reluctant to tell potential buyers how expensive horse care and ownership is. If a potential buyer is debating if they can spend 00 to buy a horse, telling them that keeping the same horse will cost another 00 every year may well result in them deciding not to buy a horse at all. While some sellers are careful to explain this reality to potential buyers, we find that most prefer to avoid the topic.

Consequently, if you know someone who is buying a horse, you can help them by sharing the facts with them in advance. Of course, one needs to take their specific circumstances into account in order to determine what their costs would be. Here is a rough guide.

To start, ask if the horse will be professionally stabled or if one is stabling the horse oneself. In the former case, costs (including box, bedding, food, labour) can vary from 0/month to 00/month although 0-0/month is typical. It depends mainly on where you live (urban areas are more expensive) so you will need to phone around to check the local costs.

On the other hand, if one stables the horse oneself, the main costs are bedding, food and labour. A typical price for bedding is 0/month but in some areas it is much more expensive. If you are using straw, figure on a small bale (25 pounds or 12kg) per day, then check the local price. For food, a medium sized horse needs about 30 pounds (15kg) of hay per day (or equivalent). The price of this quantity of hay is typically about 0/month, cheaper in some areas but much more expensive in others. Of course, labour is free if you do it yourself, but be prepared to spend at least half an hour per day mucking out and other basic tasks.

In additional to the regular monthly costs, there are a number of periodic costs: salt, minerals, wormers, annual dental check, annual innoculations. Medical insurance costs start at about /month. Of course, you don’t have to buy insurance but keep in mind that a serious illness (e.g. colic requiring surgery) or injury can cost thousands to correct.

Another consideration is how you use the horse. Riding the horse means that you will need to buy a saddle, tack and riding clothes. Showing or competing with the horse involves additional expenses.

None of this is intended to discourage one from buying a horse. Instead, it is to help one understand the financial commitment involved with owning and keeping a horse, so that one can prepare for it.

Before buying or choosing a new horse, it is important to check its health. Although it is impossible to be 100% certain that a horse is completely healthy, there are a number of tests which can identify most potential health risks. Following is a checklist.

The first indication is the overall appearance. The coat should be shinny and even. The body should be well proportioned with well toned muscle, neither over weight or under weight. It should stand evenly an all four feet, with the weight evenly distributed and the hooves pointing straight forward. Although it may rest a hind leg (but not a front one), it should not do so for long periods or always the same leg.

Run your hands slowly down each leg, feeling for any swellings, bumps or hot spots. Give special attention to joints and the bottom of the leg. Check that each hoof is smooth, even and crack free.

Lift a hoof and examine the sole to ensure that there are no marks or indications of previous injury and that it is correctly shaped. Repeat with the other hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift one of its feet, this may be because it does not want to lift a good leg and put more weight on a bad one. The hooves are perhaps the most important area to examine in terms of horse health, as so many otherwise good horses have problems here.

Check that the gums are shinny, moist and pink. If you press gently on the gums they will turn white, but should return to the normal pink color within two seconds of you removing your finger.

Examine the teeth for wear, unevenness or spurs. Give the horse about 5kg (10 pounds) of hay and watch it eat. It should use both sides of its jaw equally, not drop any food or leave any pay partly chewed. In the event of doubt, or for older horses, you may wish to get the advice of a horse dentist.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should be firm, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should appear alert, interested in its surroundings and happy. The ears should be perked up and should move in response to sounds. It should appear relaxed rather than nervous.

Have the horse taken to an exercise ring and exercised at all gaits (e.g. walk, trot, and gallop). It should take easy, smooth strides of equal length and with the weight evenly spread on all four legs. It should not favor any leg. Circle the horse in both directions (left inside and right inside) to make sure that it performs equally well in both directions.

The horse should not sweat (except during hot weather) or breathe hard until it has been worked at a fast gait. As it speeds up, there should be a gradual but moderate increase in respiration. As it slows down, the respiration should quickly follow. Once its stops, it should quickly return to its resting heart and respiration rate. It should not show any sign of discomfort or limping either before or after vigorous exercise.

Discuss the horse’s medical history with the owner and seller. Ask to see its inoculation book and medical records. Check if you can discuss these with the horse’s regular veterinarian. In particular, check if the horse has ever had any illness, especially colic or laminitis. Any incomplete or evasive answers should be a concern. Ask what the horse’s diet is, since horses fed a natural diet (grass, supplemented by hay) are less likely to develop digestive problems than horses fed mainly on grains or feeds. Finally, check if the seller will provide a written guarantee for any existing health issues which you discover following the purchase.

Laminitis is a serious hoof disease and the second most common cause (after colic) of premature death among domestic horses. Although laminitis is seldom fatal in itself, serious cases often lead to euthanasia either for humane reasons (the horse is crippled and in pain) or because the hoof damage means the horse can no longer be used.

The term ‘laminitis‘ refers to damage to the ‘laminae’, which is the connective tissues between the hoof bone (also known as the pedal bone) and the hoof wall. In mild cases of laminitis this tissue becomes inflamed and starts to break down. In more severe cases this connective tissue is sufficiently damaged that the hoof bone separates partly or completely from the hoof wall, rotating and sinking within the hoof. In extreme cases, the bone will actually penetrate the sole of the hoof. As the bone moves, it may also tear blood vessels and other tissues. Longer term, the damage to the hoof can result in permanent damage to the hoof growth and repair mechanisms, resulting in abnormal growth (e.g. flat or convex sole, rings in hoof wall, separation between hoof wall and sole).

The term ‘founder’ is related to ‘laminitis’, but is used in different ways by different people. Some people use the term founder interchangeably with laminitis, others to describe the more advanced forms of laminitis (e.g. substantial hoof bone movement or the bone penetrating the sole).

There are various causes of laminitis but they can be grouped into three categories. The first is overly rich feed, which upsets digestion, resulting in the release of toxins into the blood, where they then travel to the laminae and cause inflammation and tissue break down. The second category is mechanical separation, where the laminae is damaged from repeated shocks to the hooves (from running or jumping or hard ground). The third category is toxins, either ingested in the feed, or produced internally as a result of an infection

In developed countries, toxic damage most often occurs when the pasture or feed is too high in carbohydrates or nitrogen. Consequently, one needs to avoid excessive amounts of rich feeds (e.g. grain) or lush pasture. Pasture is richer in the spring, after rain which follows a drought, or if it has been fertilized, so one should be careful of allowing sensitive breeds to graze on these pasture types. Some breeds are more sensitive than others and ponies are generally more sensitive than horses to rich food. For sensitive breeds one should restrict the amount of rich food (e.g. grain) and keep them off of rich pastures. One way to allow horses onto pasture but to restrict the amount eaten is to use a grazing muzzle.

For both competition horses and pleasure horses, one should try to avoid working them on hard ground, as the repeated shocks can cause mechanical damage to the laminae. When travelling over hard surfaces, try reducing the pace as there is less shock when walking than when running. Shock absorbency can be improved by correct trimming, especially avoid trimming for long toes or over-trimming. Ensure that shoeing is done by a competent professional, if the horse is shoed. Consider the use of shock absorbing shoes (they have a rubber component) or shock absorbing boots, both of which are being increasing used, even during professional competitions.

Ensure that your horse goes not get external toxins from food which has mold, fungus or chemicals. Do not let them eat grass which has been chemically treated (e.g. with herbicides). Any serious infections should be promptly and aggressively treated, to prevent the infection from releasing toxins into the blood.

Cushings disease occurs in horses, dogs and even people. However, the symptoms are different, depending on the species. In horses it results in increased hair growth (longer, thicker, curly) whereas in dogs it results in hair loss and even bald spots. The horse version of this illness is called ECD (Equine Cushings Disease).

As a horse ages, there is an increasing tendency for the pituitary gland to develop tumors or to grow too large, resulting in it producing more hormones. This in turn stimulates the adrenal glands to produce additional steroids and when the level of steroids becomes excessive it results in cushings. Since these changes are age related, ECD is most often found in horses over 15 years but has been found in horses as young as seven.

Cushings was first identified in explained in’21, by Dr. Cushing, after whom the disease is name. ECD is the equine variation of the disease first identified in humans by Dr. Cushing.

Different horses show different symptoms of Equine Cushings Disease. The most common symptom is coat changes (longer, thicker, curly, failure to shed in Spring, becoming lighter in color). The heavier coat results in increased sweating as a secondary symptom, due to over-heating, especially in summer. The horse tends to lose muscle in its neck and back, despite increased appetite and eating more, while developing a pendulous abdomen. Diabetes often develops, with an associated increase in water consumption and urination. Laminitis always develops eventually. The horse becomes more prone to infections and slower to heal from external injuries due to a depressed immune system. The natural depressions above the eyes tend to fill in with fat.

Any of these symptoms can be caused by a variety of illnesses other than ECD. Consequently, blood and urine tests are normally used to confirm that the cause is ECD (e.g. by measuring hormone levels and hormone response levels) and to rule out other possible diseases. Studies have shown that many horses with ECD are either not diagnosed or incorrectly diagnosed (the symptoms are incorrectly attributed to a different disease), with the result that they do not receive appropriate treatment.

ECD cannot be cured. However, the hormone levels can be reduced to more normal levels through medication, slowing the progress of the disease. As some of the medications can have serious side effects (e.g. liver disease), one needs to monitor for any such side effects and change the medication accordingly.

One also needs to watch for symptoms of secondary diseases, such as laminitis or diabetes, which are more common in horses with ECD. These need to be treated promptly to prevent them from further damaging the horse’s health.

Finally, one should make the horse more comfortable by treating the individual symptoms. If the horse is over-heating due to a heavier coat, one should clip the coat to make the horse more comfortable.

People can be allergic to many things and some people are allergic to horses. Depending on the person, this can result in one or more of the following symptoms:

• Itchy or watery eyes
• Itchy or running nose
• Itchy skin, hives or rashes
• Sneezing or coughing
• Difficulty breathing
• Asthma attack

The severity of these symptoms varies from person to person, ranging from a slight itch to a serious asthma attack. People with asthma should be careful when they first come into contact with horses as there have been a number of cases of fatal asthma reactions. In particular, asthmatic children coming into contact with horses for the first time should be carefully monitored to see if they have an adverse reaction and their medication should be available to hand in case that they do.

Horse dander (dandruff like bits of skin or hair) is the most common cause of horse allergies. Other causes include horse mites, salvia or urine.

It is not uncommon for people to have an allergic reaction without being near a horse, through indirect contact. For example, if you enter a barn or other enclosed space where horses have been, one can come into contact with allergic agents even though the horses are not present at the time. Likewise, if a family member rides or works with horses, it is possible to have a reaction upon exposure to clothes or tack which they bring home which are carrying bits of allergic agents (e.g. dander).

Fortunately, there are a variety of treatments for horse allergies. These range from treating the symptoms using medications, to desensitizing treatment, to simple avoidance.

If you want to ride horses but find that allergies are making this difficult (or less enjoyable), another approach is to try riding a curly horse breed. Many people who are allergic to other breeds of horses find that they have little or no reaction with these breeds.

You may also wish to be medically tested to determine which aspect of horses you are allergic to. For example, if you are allergic to horse mites, treatment of the horse and its box against mites may reduce your symptoms to acceptable levels. Likewise, if it is urine or saliva you are allergic to, one can take care to avoid these specific elements when involved with horses.

When looking at horses for sale, it is important to select a suitable age. A horse which is too young can lack maturity and training, as well as being unnecessarily expensive. A horse which is too old will not provide you with the years of future riding that you would like. To help you choose a suitable age, the advantages and disadvantages are discussed below.

4-Year Old Horse. This is a popular age, as horses usually start training at age 3, to be ready for basic riding by age 4. Consequently, you can start riding and enjoying it immediately. It is also young enough that you can do advanced training if you wish. The disadvantage is that it will tend to be somewhat more expensive to buy than a younger untrained horse.

5 to 7 Years Old. A trained horse of this age has all the advantages of a 4-year old. However, it will be more emotionally mature and calmer, and may be trained to a higher level as well. All of these factors make it easier to manage and more reliable than a younger horse, so it is more suitable for new riders and for children. However, as a horse gets older it becomes more difficult and consequently more expensive to train so one should ensure that the horse is fully trained before the end of this period.

Older than 7 years. Horses get progressively calmer and quieter as they age, so horses older than 7 years are often the best choice for children, new riders and nervous riders. If the horse has been well treated, is not too old and is in good health, it can still provide many years of riding. Well kept horses, used only for light riding, can often be ridden into their 20s and sometimes even older. In addition, the older horse is often less expensive to buy.

3 year old. This is the age (depending on breed) when riding training usually starts. Consequently, you can enjoy the experience of training your horse rather than buying an already trained horse. However, if your main purpose is riding, you will likely prefer to purchase an older trained horse, saving yourself time and training fees.

Less than 3 years old. Watching a horse grow up can give immeasurable pleasure, something like watching young children mature. However, like young children, it can be difficult to predict how they will turn out physically and otherwise, so a foal is more of a gamble than a mature horse. Although foals are less expensive to buy than mature horses of the same quality, once one adds in the cost of stabling and training before it is ready to ride, they are usually more expensive in the end.

The preceding is a general summary and not applicable in all circumstances. For example, if you will be using the horse for racing or other competitions, the associated age restrictions need to be taken into account. Furthermore, breeds and individual horses age at different rates, as well as owners having different policies as to when and to what extent horses are trained prior to sale.

Horse riders need to remember the three p's - patience, persistence and positive reinforcement - when beginning to train a new horse. These are the basics that are necessary for you to understand before undertaking the rewarding task of teaching your horse to do what is desired. Following these basic tips will provide the foundations of a great relationship between horse and rider.

If you want to train a horse you must first have plenty of patience. Patience is required when teaching a horse anything that is new to him. Horses are prey animals and are aware of this fact. As the sun sets, watch horses in their pens or pasture. A herd of horses will group together for safety. They may be seen standing head to tail and side by side. Standing like this helps them to spot potential danger from different directions. A rider could be thrown if a horse unfamiliar with water were to rear up. Both could be seriously hurt or worse. Therefore, it is imperative that your horse be trained with much patience and that he learns to trust you not to take him into a situation that could be dangerous.

Horse and rider can develop a mutual trust and a confident partnership when due patience has been employed in training. It often surprises those new to horse training that one can remove or reduce the fear of impending doom felt by most horses at their exposure to new objects and situations. A horse can be scared of percieved threats, no matter how silly they may sound, such as the flapping of a shirt on a washing line. Patient training will teach your horse to feel as relaxed as you are about the flapping laundry, and he will trust you enough to walk past it without getting spooked.

Persistence when training your horse will bring great rewards. Both horse and trainer can gain in confidence and trust by practicing exercises over and over again. Ground work is the beginning of professional training which may seem tedious but is important for both horse and rider. Ground work means exactly that - not actually getting up and riding. But trainers understand that horses are no different than children learning to walk. A horse is like a baby and must learn the basics before he is ready to start being ridden.

Persistence means that you will probably have to keep repeating the same task until your horse understands. It is important for the horse to know just what he needs to do. Your horse needs to know to be still when you bring out the tack, for example. This is unnatural for your horse. It needs to be taught, and in this teaching persistence will be required. You must be more persistent than your horse. You need to remain persistent, or else he will think that he can get away with resisting or avoiding you. Persistence in training may also be termed consistency.

As a trainer you will have to use plenty of positive reinforcement. If a horse sees you as the herd leader, he will generally just want to please you. Lifelong friendships can be developed between horse and rider where each understands their role in the relationship.

Positive reinforcement can simply mean a murmur of approval to your horse, a scratch behind his ear or a well-placed pat. Your emotional state will be sensed by your perceptive horse. If you feel happy with the progress of a particular exercise, allow the horse to feel that emotion too.

A word of caution here - it is not a good idea to enter the training area with your horse if for any reason you are stressed, angry or in a particularly bad mood. The horse will sense the negativity and may become uncooperative. This has less to do with rebelliousness and more to do with the horse's fear. Your horse could be scared or apprehensive of what you may do when upset if you do not have the necessary trust between you yet.

A lasting bond of trust between horse and rider, regardless of the event or type of riding, is the ultimate goal of horse training. The basics are the same regardless of whether you choose English or Western style, or whether you will be riding for pleasure or competition. The 3 p’s principles – patience, persistence, and positive reinforcement – can be applied to any breed of horse for a successful training experience.