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Posts Tagged ‘horses’

Hoof maintenance is a crucial part of ensuring your horses well being. It’s advisable to look at your horses hooves daily, and at the very least twice each week.  By doing this you should become very familiar with what is usual and what isn’t, and be able to to spot any problems that may be beginning. 

Using this simple guide may help you in your grooming routiene.

1. As you approach your horse be sure the symmetry is releatively close, however they do not have to be exactly equal, but very similar to being the same size and shape. 

2. Look carefully for faults in the hoof wall and coronary band.  Raise up each hoof, run your palm along the outside of the wall to notice any defects.  You can use the exact procedure for the coronary band and then squeeze it softly. Using these two procedures will also point out tender areas and moisture bearing areas.

3. Carefully inspect the sole. Examine the colour of each hoof. They should be similar in colouration.  A well defined dark spot should indicate bruising or hole.

4. Look at and compare the frogs.  The two front hooves should be the sae size and shapeand it should be a similr case with the back hooves. Try to gently push each frog with your hoof pick, in the majority of areas, apart from the desert areas, they should be a little spongy.

5. If your horse is shod, grasp the shoe and see if it moves. Look for lost clinches, if loose you might choose to remove the shoe before your horse loses it on its own and perhaps removes a section of hoof with it.

If you keep a good close eye on your horses hooves, you will be able to avoid a lot of issues by catching the problem before it gets severe.

I would recommend you work into your hoof cleaning routiene some easy steps. Use your hoof pick from heel to toe.  If packed solid you might need to loosen it up a bit before it is removed. Once all the debris is removed, check all the regions of the hoof and make positive that there isn’t a smelly odour as this is usually a clear indicator of thrush.  Make sure there aren’t any rocks or stones lodged anywhere, even under the shoe.

Your horses hooves should show a natural sheen on the wall of the hoof. 

If you find a smooth level surface free of cracks, rings, dishes, flares and a concave sole that touches the shoe, then you should be confident that the hooves are in good health.

For more horse information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Most horse illnessesses and injuries (excluding those caused by shorts injuries or mistreatment are caused by a few horse management mistakes. Following are the 10 most important tips for correct horse management and protecting your horse’s health

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

A mineral stone and salt lick should also be provided, to compensate for any deficiencies in the horse’s food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

It is quite possible to buy a good horse for a low price at an auction, but there are often more problem horses than good horses so you need to be able to tell the difference. At most auctions, horses are sold ‘as-is’ and without guarantee, so if you find a problem afterwards you likely won’t be able to get your money back. Therefore, you need to do your homework in advance to pick out which ones meet your criteria, after eliminating the potential problems (e.g. injured, sick, bad habits, or behavioral issues).

One should start by arriving some hours before the auction starts, so that there is time to examine the horses, preferably starting as they arrive. Study them as they are being unloaded and put into their pens. They should walk easily, with no sign of discomfort. They should have an overall healthy appearance, with good muscles and shiny coat. One expects them to be alert and a bit nervous, due to the noise and unfamiliar surroundings of the auction. In fact, if they appear overly calm or indifferent, this is a sign of apathy likely due to illness or drugs.

Look at how the people unloaded the horses treat them. If they are the owners and are gentle with it, if is likely a well treated and well behaved horse, due to having received good horse care. However, if they are rough with the horse or hit it, then the horse may well have an abusive owner and resultant behavioral issues. Of course, one needs to know if the person handling the horse is the owner or not in order to decide how relevant this is.

When the horses have been moved to their pens, watch how they behave and move there. Any which have abnormal behavior should be removed from consideration. Look (without entering the pen) for any marks or scars, which may indicate a previous injury or even mistreatment.

At this point, you will likely have eliminated most of the horses from consideration and have a short list of possible candidates. Try to find the owners for these and ask them to tell you about the horse. Ask what illnesses or injuries the horse has had. Inquire as to whether it has any bad behaviors, habits or other problems. Ask how it has been kept and what it has been used for.

If you are still interested in a horse at this stage, ask the owner if he can remove it from the pen so that you can examine it. It is much better to examine a horse on its own, as it allow you to concentrate on the horse without the distractions or possible accidents associated with being surrounded by strange horses. Start by closely looking over all parts of the horse. Then run your hands over the horse, feeling carefully for any bumps or other irregularities, with special attention to the legs. Carefully examine the hooves, especially underneath. Check that no teeth are missing and that there isn’t excessive wear or other issues (be careful of your fingers). With two fingers, press down on both sides of the spine, moving down the entire length of its back, watching if the horse displays any discomfort or pain at any point. During the entire examination the horse should be alert but should not be aggressive or fearful.

If at this point everything still looks good, add the horse to your short list. If you don’t see any horses that you are absolutely happy with, it is best not to bid at all. Although the sale price may not be that high, the cost of ownership is substantial, so you need to be sure before making a commitment. Once you have finished your short list, set a maximum price for each horses; it is easy to get carried away at an auction and pay too much so one should set a firm budget in advance.

Before bidding on a horse, make sure that you have a place to keep the horse and to transport it there. If you haven’t made arrangements in advance, discuss with the auction staff if they know of a reputable person that can do this for you. At this point you should be prepared for the bidding. Good luck!

Colic is the most commonly occuring serious horse illness, affecting at least 1 in 10 horses each year. It is the single biggest cause of premature horse death and also the most frequent source of major veterinary bills. In addition, it can cause other serious illnesses, such as laminitis or founder.

There are douzens of different types of colic and just as many causes. However, the primary causes have been identified by research which has spaned thousands of colic cases. Following is a list of what one should do to avoid these primary causes and thereby minimise the risk of horse colic, as well as being generally good horse health practices.

1) Feed Frequently. Horses have evolved as foragers, eating throughout the day. The more often your horse eats, the healthier its digestive system will be. Try to replace a few large meals by more but smaller meals.

2) Grass before Grain. The equine digestive system is designed for ‘high volume, low calorie’ food such as grass or hay. Energy-dense foods such as grain or musli have insufficient volume and fiber. Consequently, the diet should have as much grass or hay as possible. If one feeds both hay and grain, one should feed the hay followed by the grain rather than the reverse order, as this results in better digestion and less bolting.

3) Soak Food Pellets. Food pellets (such as pelleted hay) should be soaked. Unsoaked pellets can greatly expand upon entering the stomach, resulting in bloating. Also, both choke and bolting are more likely to occur with unsoaked pellets.

4) Secure the Feedroom. The feedroom should be locked or have a horse-proof latch to prevent horses from getting in and gorging themselves. Excessive feeding, especially on grain and similar foods, can result in colic. It can also cause laminitis or founder.

5) Prevent Bolting. A horse may bolt (swallow without chewing) its food, potentially resulting in colic. This may be simply greed or a bad habit, but can also be due to medical issues such as dental problems. If your horse bolts, discuss with your vet how to correct this problem.

6) Dirt and Sand. Horses that ingest large amounts of dirt or sand are likely to develop impaction colic, especially if they have a low-fiber diet. Do not feed your horse on a sandy or dirty surface. Avoid putting them on over-grazed pastures, as they will ingest earth on such pastures.

7) Water. Ensure that the horse has access to water at all times. During winter, horses will often not drink enough if the water is too cold so one may need to warm the water. After exercise, limit the amount of water the horse drinks before it cools down.

Worming. Horses which are wormed regularly (3-4 times/year) are less likely to develop colic. All the horses on a given pasture should be wormed at the same time to prevent cross-reinfection. Horses which have not been wormed for a long time can get colic when wormed due to an excessive worm population, so they should be given a laxative a few days before to first reduce the quantity of worms.

9) Regular Exercise. Horses with insufficient exercise are more prone to colic. When starting an exercise regime, start gradually as rapid changes in the amount of exercise can result in colic.

10) Eating Bedding. Many horses eat bedding, particularly straw bedding. If your horse ingests a large amount of bedding, especially inedible beddings (such as wood shavings), change to a bedding type which they don’t eat.

10) Cold. Although horses can tolerate a fair amount of cold, if they become chilled (drop in body temperature) they are likely to develop colic. This is particularly likely to occur when there is a sudden drop in temperature after a relatively mild period. Avoid these by allowing your horse to develop a winter coat and/or protecting it with a rug. Especially during wet and windy weather, the horse should be protected from excessive cold.

The curly coats which give these horses their name is due to a certain gene which is passed on from their parents. In addition to their coat, other hair (e.g. tail, mane, even eyelashes) can display curls. This is one of four unique features which make this breed popular:

1) Hypoallergenic. People who suffer from horse allergies generally have a reduced reaction to curlies and many of them have no reaction at all, making this group of horses unique.

2) Appearance. The appearance of these horses, due to the curls or waves in their coat, is not only unusual but many people find it exceptionally attractive.

3) Feel. The soft feel of the coats make petting these horses especially enjoyable for both children and adults.

4) Temperament. These horses are reputed to be particularly calm, sensible and intelligent. As such they are especially suited to children and for therapy.

Although the genes which produce curly hair are relatively uncommon among horses, they are found in many different types of horse, from miniatures to standard sized to draft horses. Curly horses also vary in color and build.

The nature of the curl also varies from horse to horse. In some cases it consists of large, heavy curls but in others it is smaller curls or even fine pin curls. It may even be waves. In some cases, the hair is straight as in a normal horse (no sign of curl), but the horse is still considered a ‘curly horse’ because it is descended from curly horse parents and retains other characteristics such as being hypoallergenic even though it does not display the characteristic curly coat.

As the above shows, there is a great deal of diversity in curlies (size, color, build, curl characteristics). This diversity is partly due to the fact that the curly genes are naturally occurring and there has not been a long term breeding program to develop a uniform set of characteristics against a breed standard. In fact, an official breed standard has not yet been agreed. Consequently, one should feel free to choose a curly horse which one finds attractive without worrying greatly as to whether the horse fits a certain standard.

Before buying a curly, keep in mind that the coat curl changes with season (curl is greater in winter) and age. The degree of change depends on the individual horse and its bloodline, with some horses remaining curly all year round and others having straight hair in summer. Curly horses also tend to have shorter and thinner hair in manes and tail (somewhat like the Appaloosa breed), although the extent of this also varies greatly depending on horse and bloodline. Therefore, it is useful before choosing a horse to see it in both winter and summer (ask the seller for photos). It is also useful to look at other horses of the same bloodline but different ages to see the expected changes as the horse ages.

The hypoallergenic quality of curlies varies from horse to horse, and the benefits vary from person to person. Consequently, while one can say that most people have reduced or no allergic reactions to curly horses, this is not true of all people or all curlies. Therefore, before buying one in the hope that one will not have an allergic reaction, one should in fact test the specific person to the specific horse to confirm this. Take appropriate medical advice on how to test safely, if you have extreme allergies.

The curly horse is known by a number of names, such as: Bashkir Curlies, North American Curly Horses, or American Bashkir Curlies.

If you are looking for a free (or very inexpensive) horse, one of the best places to look is rescue associations, or animal rescue groups which also deal with horses. These associations take on horses but have limited resources to take care of them in terms of space (stalls, pasture), money (food, bedding, etc.) and staff time (mucking out, general care). Consequently, they are normally looking for good homes to pass the horses onto, so that they can free up their scare resources to care for others. Therefore, they will usually pass the horses on for free, or for a nominal amount (to recover some of their direct costs).

Aside from getting a free horse, you are also doing a good deed. In fact two good deeds: giving a horse a good home and making room for another horse to be rescued. Another advantage is that rescue organisations are non-profit and consequently looking at what is best for the horse and new owner, so are more likely to be honest about potential issues and the suitability of the horse to your requirements than businesses offering horses for sale.

Before they give a horse to a new owner, the association will need assurances that the horse will be well taken care of. You will need to show them that you have the facilities (e.g. stall, pasture) to take care of the horse, or that you will be renting adequate facilities (e.g. at a professional horse boarding business). They will also want to be assured that you have the time, money and commitment to take care of the horse long term.

There may be a number of horses available. Before choosing one, it is advisable to learn as much about it and its background as possible. This will help you identify any potential issues such as health problems or behavioral issues. You should ask about the results of their veterinary examinations of the horse and also the opinions of the staff caring for the horse.

In particular, one should ask why the horse has been taken into care. If it was simply because the owner could no longer keep it (e.g. due to financial difficulties) or lost interest in it (a common situation with horses purchased for young children), then the horse is probably sound. However, if the horse was rescued because it was neglected or abused, then it may have longer term physical or behavioral issues that you need to be aware of. Likewise, if the owner gave up the horse because it was sick or no longer suitable for riding.

One also needs to think carefully about the horse’s current capabilities in terms of what you will use it for. Many rescue horses are old; if you only want the horse as a companion horse then this is not a problem but if you want to ride it regularly then an elderly horse is likely unsuitable. If the local rescue organizations don’t have a horse that meets your requirements, the best solution is to wait. Leave them your contact details and your requirements, after assuring them that you will provide a good home for the right horse. You may need to wait a few months, but with so many horses being rescued for a variety of reasons, there is a very good chance that one which meets your requirements will become available.

When looking to buy a horse, one of the first decisions is whether to get one which is untrained, partly trained, or fully trained. Most people, especially if it is there first horse, will be better off getting a horse which is already trained for whatever they intend to use if for. For example, if one intends to use the horse for basic riding it should already be trained for riding, whereas if you are using it for show jumping, it should already be trained in show jumping.

Of course, after looking at horses for sale, one can purchase an untrained horse or a partly trained horse. Such a horse will be less expensive to buy. Also, you can instruct a trainer on exactly how you want the horse trained, and you can have the experience and pleasure of participating in this. However, against these advantages, there are a number of disadvantages:

• Cost of Training. The cost of training depends on individual circumstances and is hard to estimate, but it is under-estimated far more often than over-estimated. Aside from the direct trainer costs, unless the trainer comes to you, there are the additional costs of either stabling the horse with the trainer, or transporting the horse to the trainer for each lesson. Many people find that by the time the horse is fully trained to the level they require, it would have been cheaper to have bought an already trained horse.
• Accidents. Occasionally there are accidents during training, even with good trainers, especially during early training when the horse is less predictable. Even in the case of minor accidents, there may be vet costs.
• Mis-Training. Trainers vary both in terms of approach and in quality. Furthermore, in order to secure the training contract at an economical level, trainers may rush the training or under-estimate the amount required. If this occurs, at best you end up with an incompletely trained horse and at worse a horse which has been mis-trained, resulting in undesirable behaviors.
• Feel. Two horses, trained in exactly the same way, will provide a different riding experience due to individual differences. Horses differ due to breed, build, training and individual genetics. Consequently, how comfortable you will be riding a horse is more predictable with an already trained horse than with an untrained one.
• Health Examination. A trained horse is easier to evaluate for injuries or other defects as one can ride it and one can watch it carefully while being ridden in each gait. Although one can examine an untrained horse, the examination by necessity is less complete.

Due to these considerations, buying untrained (or partly trained) horse can be both more expensive and more risky than buying a fully trained horse.

Although some people purchase a horse with the idea of training it themselves, this is inadvisable unless one is an experienced trainer (or working closely with one). Novice trainers can easily give the horse bad behaviors or habits, which are expensive and difficult to correct.

Also be careful of buying a partly trained horse based on the seller’s promise to complete the training. After the sale is made, it is too tempting for the seller to rush the training, in order to reduce costs and get payments as quickly as possible. Make the final commitment to buy only after the horse competes its training and you have ridden it to confirm that you are completely happy.

Cribbing is a behavioral problem, which sometimes develops in horses with insufficient mental stimulation (i.e. bored horses) and most commonly occurs in horses which spend long periods of time in stalls. Cribbing horses bite objects (such as fencing rails), while pulling backwards on the object and sucking air. It is believed that the horse does this because it causes the release of pleasurable brain chemicals (endorphins). The terms ‘wind sucking’ and ‘crib biting’ are alternative names for cribbing.

Horse cribbing is sometimes confused with wood chewing but the two are different problems. A wood chewer simply nibbles on the wood, which is a habit that is easily treatable. A cribber pulls on wood (or other objects) while sucking air in order to release brain chemicals, which effectively makes it a drug addiction, and consequently much more difficult to cure.

Cribbing should be treated as soon as possible to minimize damage to your horse’s health. Untreated, it will result in the horse wearing down and damaging its teeth, leading to dental issues. It will also result in the neck muscles growing and thickening in an abnormal way (which is an issue for show horses in particular). It is also associated with various illnesses, such as colic, but there has been insufficient research to understand the nature of the association (e.g. does cribbing cause colic, or are both cribbing and colic both promoted by excessive periods confined to stalls).

Ideally, one should prevent the development of the cribbing behavior by providing the horse with as natural and interesting environment as possible. Once a horse has cribbing, the situation is more difficult, but one can greatly reduce the frequency of cribbing by providing a mentally stimulating environment. The first step is to provide as much pasture time as possible. One should also make the feeding regime as natural as possible, consisting of pasture grass if possible and hay as a second choice; foods such as grains which can be quickly eaten with minimum chewing are the least desirable. In addition, many small feeds are preferable to a few large feeds, as this helps break up the day. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, will make a positive contribution.

The above actions are normally quite successful in reducing the amount of cribbing. Unfortunately, once the habit is established, merely providing a good environment will not in itself cure the habit. One also needs to take steps to physically prevent cribbing. There are a number of options here; none of them are successful with every horse so you may need to try different ones until you find one that works with your horse and situation.

A common treatment is the ‘cribbing strap’ which is a strap that fits around the neck with a metal plate underneath to making swelling the neck to suck air uncomfortable; this device is also known as a cribbing collar. One can also use a specially-designer muzzle which allows the horse to eat but prevents it grasping fence rails or other objects with its teeth. Putting a fencing wire (with electrical current) on top of fence rails will also keep the horse from cribbing on them. There are also a number of paints which are designed to have a foul taste which one can paint rails and other objects with to discourage cribbing on them (make sure that any product you use is veterinary approved). Some people find that anti-depressant medication helps. If none of the above techniques work, the final approach is surgical, consisting of cutting certain neck muscles and nerves and thereby preventing the cribbing activity.

It is important to both address the base issue (intense boredom) and to try to physically discourage the horse using one of the above approaches. Trying just one or the other is seldom effective.

Wood chewing not only damages stables and fencing, it can also be bad for the horse’s health. Wood splinters can get stuck in the gums or teeth. If swallowed, the splinters can damage the stomach or intestines, or cause impaction colic. Fortunately, the habit of wood chewing is usually not difficult to correct and the short-term health risks are low in most cases.

The first step is to confirm that the problem is really wood chewing and not the more serious issue of horse cribbing. In wood chewing, the horse is nibbling on the wood. Cribbing is completely different; the horse does not eat the wood but instead grabs the wood with its front teeth, arches its neck and then sucks in air. As the two activities are very different, observation can confirm which problem your horse has. Alternatively, examination of the wood should show if it has been damaged by nibbling or damaged simply by a firm bite.

Wood chewing is a habit which usually results from boredom. One finds it most often with horses which are confined to their stalls much of the day, who start chewing wood as there is nothing else to do. A less common cause is stress or nervousness, again most common with boxed horses which do not have sufficient exercise or space to work out nervous energy and consequently start chewing wood to distract themselves. A third cause is nutritional deficiencies; if a horse is not getting all the minerals they need.

The first step in fixing the problem is to address the underlying cause. Since it is not always possible to know which of the three possible causes is the problem, the easiest solution is to address all three. Provide the horse with as much pasture time as possible, as this provides mental stimulation and also an outlet for nervous energy. Give it chewy food such as grass and hay, which will occupy it and meet its natural desire to chew better than fast foods such as grain or muesli. Companion horses, exercise and an interesting environment all help. In case the problem is nutritional, ensure that it has good access to a salt lick and a mineral stone. Try to identify anything which may be causing the horse stress (e.g. bullying by another horse) and address the issue.

These steps should result in a reduction in wood chewing. However, once the horse has the habit of chewing on wood, the habit will continue even after the reason for it is fixed. Consequently, one also needs to take steps to address the behavioral aspect in addition to the causes.

One stops the habit by making it unpleasant or impossible for the horse to chew wood. There are a number of products which are designed to taste terrible which one can paint onto wood surfaces, so the horse does not want to chew on them. For fencing, adding an electric fence wire (under current) to the top of the rails will keep the horse from chewing them. Within the stall, one can place metal strips onto the top of wood (e.g. on top of wooden stall doors).

One should make sure to address both the cause (e.g. boredom) and the behavior (e.g. with paint). Doing just one or the other is insufficient. If one fixes the cause but not the behavior, the habit is likely to continue, although to a lesser amount. If one prevents the behaviour (e.g. with paint) but does not address the underlying cause, the horse still has a problem and this may well lead to the development of a different behavioral problem.

Working in the horse business, I often get asked how much a good horse costs. Unfortunately, the question is almost always in terms of ‘how much to buy’ rather than ‘how much to keep’. The sad truth is that far too many people are buying horses and then finding that they cannot afford to keep them.

People working with horses (breeding, training or sales) are understandably reluctant to tell potential buyers how expensive horse care and ownership is. If a potential buyer is debating if they can spend 00 to buy a horse, telling them that keeping the same horse will cost another 00 every year may well result in them deciding not to buy a horse at all. While some sellers are careful to explain this reality to potential buyers, we find that most prefer to avoid the topic.

Consequently, if you know someone who is buying a horse, you can help them by sharing the facts with them in advance. Of course, one needs to take their specific circumstances into account in order to determine what their costs would be. Here is a rough guide.

To start, ask if the horse will be professionally stabled or if one is stabling the horse oneself. In the former case, costs (including box, bedding, food, labour) can vary from 0/month to 00/month although 0-0/month is typical. It depends mainly on where you live (urban areas are more expensive) so you will need to phone around to check the local costs.

On the other hand, if one stables the horse oneself, the main costs are bedding, food and labour. A typical price for bedding is 0/month but in some areas it is much more expensive. If you are using straw, figure on a small bale (25 pounds or 12kg) per day, then check the local price. For food, a medium sized horse needs about 30 pounds (15kg) of hay per day (or equivalent). The price of this quantity of hay is typically about 0/month, cheaper in some areas but much more expensive in others. Of course, labour is free if you do it yourself, but be prepared to spend at least half an hour per day mucking out and other basic tasks.

In additional to the regular monthly costs, there are a number of periodic costs: salt, minerals, wormers, annual dental check, annual innoculations. Medical insurance costs start at about /month. Of course, you don’t have to buy insurance but keep in mind that a serious illness (e.g. colic requiring surgery) or injury can cost thousands to correct.

Another consideration is how you use the horse. Riding the horse means that you will need to buy a saddle, tack and riding clothes. Showing or competing with the horse involves additional expenses.

None of this is intended to discourage one from buying a horse. Instead, it is to help one understand the financial commitment involved with owning and keeping a horse, so that one can prepare for it.